Multidisciplinary Approaches for the Investigation of Textiles and Fibres in the Archaeological Field, edited by Francesca Coletti, Christina Margariti, Vanessa Forte, Stella Spantidaki, 2024 Springer Cham, pp. VIII, 189 ISBN-978-3-031-73814-2.
Link: https://link.springer.com/book/10.1007/978-3-031-73812-8
A Journey into Archaeology and Science: What do ancient textiles reveal about our history?
Abstract
This book is dedicated to the analytical methods and approaches applied to ancient textiles and fibres. It offers an overview of textile archaeology as an archaeological discipline, presenting its history and developments up to state of the art approaches in the study of textiles fibres. It demonstrates how various fields of research have contributed to the development and growth of the discipline. It establishes that fibre identification is a key element in ancient textile studies, showing its importance in understanding a large variety of economic and social aspects of human societies. However, fibre identification in archaeological textiles is not a straightforward task, mainly due to the vast variety of fibres people used in antiquity to make textiles and the more often than not poor condition of preservation of excavated textiles. Currently, comprehensive studies on more traditional fibre identification techniques, such as Scanning Electron and Optical microscopy, spectroscopic techniques (e.g. Fourier Transform Infrared spectroscopy – FTIR, Raman) and recent advances in αDNA and paleoproteomics, along with experiments on artificial ageing and deterioration of textiles, constitute a promising path down the exploration and analysis of archaeological textiles. This book shows how these techniques have advanced the discipline of textile archaeology and contributed to our understanding of the past. This volume brings together scholars investigating fibres in a holistic way, by the incorporation of a variety of methods, in order to improve the current methodological approaches in the study and conservation of textiles and related material.
Chapter 6 is available open access under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License via link.springer.com.
(Microscopy images of plant fibres, J. A. Suomela and S. Lipkin; Bast fibres and textiles showing different state of preservation, F. Coletti @ per gentile concessione)
Preserving the Threads of Time: New Methods in Textile Research
The study of textiles has long been a challenge in archaeology due to the fragile and perishable nature of these materials, yet their significance in understanding past civilizations is undeniable. Multidisciplinary Approaches for the Investigation of Textiles and Fibres in the Archaeological Field, edited by Francesca Coletti, Christina Margariti, Vanessa Forte, and Stella Spantidaki, brings together a wealth of research and expertise to explore how interdisciplinary scientific methods are revolutionizing the study of textiles in archaeology. This book highlights the crucial role that textile remains play in reconstructing ancient societies, shedding light on aspects of daily life, technological development, trade networks, and cultural identity.
Textiles, as one of the most fundamental human productions, have been used for clothing, ritual purposes, and expressions of social status for millennia. However, because organic fibres degrade over time, textile remains in archaeological contexts are often preserved only in exceptional conditions, such as mineralized on metal objects, carbonized in fires, or trapped in waterlogged environments. The book presents an array of innovative techniques that enable scholars to analyze these rare and delicate materials, combining traditional humanities-based approaches with state-of-the-art scientific methodologies. Among the most effective tools for textile research are microscopic imaging, multi-analytical techniques, and archaeometric approaches that allow for the detailed examination of fibre structures, dye compositions, and technological processes. The use of scanning electron microscopy (SEM) has proven invaluable in identifying textile remains that are otherwise invisible to the naked eye, while radiocarbon dating and proteomic analysis have offered new insights into the chronology and composition of ancient fabrics.
Through a series of compelling case studies, the book illustrates the profound impact that textile research has on our understanding of the past. One example is the study of mineralized textile remains from Roman burial sites, where advanced imaging techniques have revealed details about weaving patterns and fibre origins, providing new evidence on ancient Roman textile production and funerary practices. Another fascinating case focuses on the effects of carbonization on textiles from Pompeii, where researchers have been able to reconstruct the physical and chemical transformations that occurred during the catastrophic eruption of Mount Vesuvius in AD 79. Additionally, the book explores the experimental replication of ancient spinning tools, helping to determine their function and effectiveness in different textile production techniques.
By integrating scientific analysis with experimental archaeology, this volume demonstrates how textiles can serve as powerful archaeological artifacts, offering a window into ancient economies, craftsmanship, and social structures. The research compiled in this book not only enhances our ability to analyze existing textile finds but also establishes protocols for future discoveries, ensuring that textile archaeology continues to evolve as a dynamic and interdisciplinary field.
Designed for archaeologists, historians, conservators, scientists, and anyone interested in the material culture of the past, Multidisciplinary Approaches for the Investigation of Textiles and Fibres in the Archaeological Field offers a comprehensive overview of the latest advancements in textile research. It bridges the gap between the humanities and the natural sciences, demonstrating that the study of textiles is not merely an auxiliary aspect of archaeology but a central component in understanding human history. By bridging humanities and science, Multidisciplinary Approaches for the Investigation of Textiles and Fibres in the Archaeological Field offers a fresh perspective on archaeology and material culture. It is a must-read for anyone eager to discover how ancient threads continue to weave stories of the past