projects

A3TEX

Research in Proteomics for Textile Heritage Conservation

A3TEX’s research not only enhances our understanding of historical textile production and trade but also provides essential tools for conservators seeking to preserve delicate cultural heritage artifacts. By integrating proteomics with advanced analytical techniques, the research of the A3TEX conservation scientists represent a significant contribution to both archaeological science and museum conservation efforts. Through the following research and analyses, A3TEX will establish a new standard in textile proteomics, offering a transformative approach to the study and preservation of historic fabrics worldwide.

Dr. Ilaria Serafini’s research is at the forefront of applying proteomics to the study of historical and archaeological textiles, offering innovative methodologies for analyzing protein-based artifacts. Proteomics, the large-scale study of proteins, has proven to be a powerful tool in conservation science, enabling researchers to identify materials, assess degradation processes, and develop strategies for artifact preservation. This field has advanced significantly over the past decade, particularly in characterizing fibrous proteins such as keratin (in wool, hair, and fur), fibroin (in silk), and collagen (in leather and parchment). Through mass spectrometry techniques, proteomics provides crucial insights into the composition, origin, and transformation of proteinaceous materials in historical textiles.

Previous Project

PARCA Project: Advance in Proteomics and Analysis of dyes and Recovery of Charred and Aged textiles

PARCA Project: Advance in Proteomics and Analysis of dyes and Recovery of Charred and Aged textiles  project under the Marie Skłodowska-Curie Actions (H2020-MSCA-IF-2020)

Researcher: Ilaria Serafini. 

Dr. Serafini’s PARCA project (H2020-MSCA-IF-2020) was pivotal in advancing proteomics-based analysis of ancient textiles, particularly charred and aged fabrics from archaeological contexts. This project addressed the challenges in analyzing archaeological textiles by developing innovative protocols that combined dye and protein analysis into a single extraction, thereby minimizing sample size and maximizing data retrieval. Utilizing advanced methodologies and Liquid Chromatography-Orbitrap-Mass Spectrometry, the project aimed to create protocols applicable to severely degraded archaeological textiles. The research was conducted over two years at the Smithsonian Institution’s proteomics lab under the supervision of Dr. Timothy P. Cleland and Dr. Gwénaëlle M. Kavich, followed by a third year at Sapienza University of Rome under the guidance of Prof. Roberta Curini and Prof. Gabriele Favero. The project analyzed archaeological relics from the Mediterranean basin, including samples from Pompeii and Greek regions.

project .01

Evaluation of Degradation in Charred Textiles

Overview

One of the current key research led by Dr Serafini in proteomics field investigats degradation and modifications in charred textiles from Pompeii and Greek areas. The study of charred archaeological textiles presents a unique challenge due to their extreme degradation caused by historical fires and burial conditions. This project aims to systematically analyze the degradation pathways and chemical modifications occurring in ancient charred textiles recovered from the archaeological sites of Pompeii and key Greek locations. The research employs a multi-technique approach, integrating proteomic analysis, spectroscopic techniques, and microscopy to assess the molecular transformations in textile fibers.

Study Framework

Objectives
  • Identify the structural and chemical modifications in protein-based and cellulosic fibers caused by charring.
  • Develop a degradation model to predict preservation conditions and optimize conservation strategies.
  • Utilize non-invasive techniques such as Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR), Raman spectroscopy, and scanning electron microscopy (SEM) to evaluate fiber alterations before sampling for proteomic analysis.
  • Compare degradation patterns among textiles from different sites to determine environmental and historical impacts.
Methodologies
  • Proteomics Analysis: Using LC-MS (Liquid Chromatography-Mass Spectrometry) to assess protein degradation markers in charred wool and silk textiles.
  • Spectroscopy and Microscopy: Employing FTIR, Raman, and SEM-EDS (Energy Dispersive Spectroscopy) to characterize material composition and detect degradation indicators.
  • Data Correlation: Cross-referencing spectral data with proteomic findings to determine degradation thresholds and fiber resilience over time.

Unraveling the Past: Advancing proteomic Insights for the preservation of archaeological textiles

The research on charred textiles and their degradation is expected to yield significant advancements in the field of cultural heritage conservation. By systematically analyzing the molecular alterations that occur in proteinaceous fibers subjected to charring, this study will provide a comprehensive understanding of protein degradation mechanisms. This knowledge is crucial for improving preservation techniques and guiding restoration efforts for ancient textiles exposed to fire or extreme environmental conditions.

One of the key outcomes of Serafini’s research will be the creation of a dedicated database of degradation markers, which will serve as an essential reference tool for archaeologists, conservators, and researchers. By cataloging specific biochemical changes occurring in wool, silk, and other fibrous materials over time, this database will enhance the authentication and condition assessment of archaeological textiles, enabling more precise conservation strategies.

Moreover, the study will lead to the development of innovative, non-destructive methodologies for textile analysis. These new approaches aim to minimize sampling requirements, allowing researchers to extract valuable information about historical textiles while preserving their integrity. By integrating advanced spectroscopic techniques with proteomic analysis, Serafini’s work will establish a framework for sensitive, minimally invasive diagnostic tools, ensuring that fragile artifacts can be studied without compromising their structural stability. Ultimately, these outcomes will contribute to a more sustainable and scientifically rigorous approach to the conservation of textile heritage worldwide.

project .02

Proteomic Profiling of Fibers

Overview

Fibre digitali

Characterizing the proteomic profiles of various fibers to build a comprehensive database of different wool and silk samples. 

The aim of this project is to establish a reference database for the proteomic characterization of natural textile fibers, primarily wool and silk. This initiative addresses the need for a comprehensive molecular database to support textile authentication, conservation efforts, and historical textile research. By mapping the proteomic composition of fibers from different species, production processes, and historical periods, this project enhances our ability to trace textile origins and degradation pathways.

Study Framework

Objectives
  • Build a proteomic reference database for different types of wool (sheep breeds, wild species) and silk (Bombyx mori, wild silks).
  • Identify unique peptide markers for fiber authentication and degradation studies.
  • Compare protein profiles of archaeological, historical, and contemporary fibers to assess conservation status.
  • Develop standardized analytical protocols for textile proteomics applicable to both research and forensic studies.
Methodologies
  • Protein Extraction & Digestion: Optimizing extraction protocols for keratin and fibroin proteins in aged and degraded textile fibers.
  • LC-MS Analysis: Employing high-resolution mass spectrometry (HPLC-Orbitrap-MS) to identify species-specific peptide markers.
  • Bioinformatics & Database Construction: Developing a curated database of fiber-associated peptides and their degradation profiles.
  • Comparative Analysis: Evaluating historical textile samples alongside modern references to track molecular changes over time.

Preserving Textile Heritage: Advancing Proteomic Research for Wool and Silk Fibers

The development of a publicly accessible proteomic database for wool and silk fibers will be a groundbreaking achievement in the field of textile research. By systematically characterizing the protein composition of different fiber types, this resource will provide conservators, researchers, and forensic experts with a comprehensive reference tool for studying historical and archaeological textiles. This database will facilitate comparative analysis, enabling the identification of fiber origins, production techniques, and degradation processes over time.

A key outcome of this project is the identification of peptide markers for textile authentication and conservation. These biomarkers will serve as unique molecular signatures, allowing scientists to differentiate between various wool and silk types, trace their historical production methods, and assess their state of preservation. By refining proteomic methodologies, the research will contribute to more precise authentication techniques, essential for museums, collectors, and cultural institutions tasked with preserving textile artifacts.

Moreover, the project will enhance forensic methodologies for identifying historical textiles of unknown provenance. Many textiles in museum collections lack clear documentation regarding their origin or material composition. By leveraging advanced proteomic analysis, researchers will be able to reconstruct the material history of these textiles, shedding light on their geographical and temporal background. This advancement will not only aid in the conservation of cultural heritage but also provide critical insights into historical trade routes, textile manufacturing traditions, and ancient material sciences.

Industrial Scale-up and Technology Transfer Activities

Dr. Serafini co-founded Sapienza’s start-up D-ART srl with Dr Alessandro Ciccola, which offers diagnostic-analytical services in cultural heritage, including material characterization, conservation state assessment, and authenticity analysis. The start-up provides comprehensive diagnostic projects in collaboration with various Sapienza partners and offers development and testing services for specific products and materials for conservation and restoration. Additionally, D-ART srl extends its multi-technical analysis services to other fields, such as agri-food, cosmetics, and pharmaceuticals. Notably, the start-up has been involved in the conservation and analysis of Raffaello Sanzio’s tapestries. 

Selected Publications

Serafini, I., Favero, G., Curini, R., Kavich, G. M., & Cleland, T. P. (2024). Development of a Combined Protein and Dye Extraction Approach for the Analysis of Keratin-Based Textiles. Journal of Proteome Research, 23(9), 3890–3903. 

Serafini, I., Ciccola, A., Curini, R., Favero, G., Kavich, G. M., Cleland, T. P., & Solazzo, C. (2024). Revealing the Unknown: How Multi-technical Approach Can Be Crucial in Identification of Dyes and Protein in Archeological Remains. In F. Coletti, C. Margariti, V. Forte, & S. Spantidaki (Eds.), Multidisciplinary Approaches for the Investigation of Textiles and Fibres in the Archaeological Field (pp. 71–122). Springer Cham. 

Solazzo, C., Soulat, J., & Cleland, T. P. (2021). Creation of a peptide database of corneous beta-proteins of marine turtles for the identification of tortoiseshell: archaeological combs as case study. Royal Society Open Science, 8(2), 201857.

Cleland, T. P., Schroeter, E. R., & Colleary, C. (2021). Diagenetiforms: A new term to explain protein changes as a result of diagenesis in paleoproteomics. Journal of Proteomics, 230, 103992.

Cleland, T. P. (2018). Human Bone Paleoproteomics Utilizing the Single-Pot, Solid-Phase-Enhanced Sample Preparation Method to Maximize Detected Proteins and Reduce Humics. Journal of Proteome Research, 17(11), 3976–3983.

Researcher Profiles